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Kings Kloof Rock Climbing

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1km from Krugersdorp

-26.0661, 27.7791

12 minutes walk in.

+27 83 669 3028 www.saclimbingacademy.co.za

Moderate, Grade 12-29, Suitable for children

About

This crag is very new, having being bolted only a couple of years ago, but is very popular both for the very tranquil, picturesque valley/kloof setting and because the climbing is reasonably tame. The cliffs were formed by huge geological forces and are much like the Cape’s folded mountains, with spectacular formations and varied aspects, so there’s always somewhere in shade. Generally the crags on the right of the river (facing downstream) are in shade in the morning, while the crags on the left are in shade in the afternoon. It can be hot in summer and is warm and sunny in winter, so it is a good winter option.

There are 49 largely vertical routes on hard quartzite ranging from 12 to 25 metres high. Although there are various crags in the kloof, only two areas are bolted sectors – “Upstream” in the south-east and “Downstream” in the north-west. Downstream is divided into two, with The Light Side, having gentle easy climbs, while the appropriately named Dark Side features some intimidating roofs. Classics from the Dark Side are “Golgotha” (18/19) and “Turn or Burn” (23), while “Do Dassies Go To Heaven” (21) and “Hades” (20) are two of the best routes in the harder and longer Upstream sector.

Some areas, particularly in the Downstream sector, have some friable rock, so belayers are advised to wear helmets and to use the belay safety bolts (painted black) provided at the start of some of the climbs. Several of the climbs are 25 metres or more, so bring a 60-metre rope and 12 draws.

This is a very safe crag sandwiched between Rocky Valley camp and Achterbergh resort. No booking is required but there’s an entrance fee of R30 per person payable at Rocky Valley camp, which is accessed off Edward Rd in Krugersdorp). Please note that each and every person is required to sign an individual indemnity form, with a parent/guardian signing for those under 18 years. Derek Schneider, the manager of Rocky Valley, lives in the house on the left nearest the bridge, and  the book is in the grey metal box on a post just in front of the house, where you sign the indemnity and leave your money.

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