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Magaliesberg Rock Climbing

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31km from Magaliesburg

-25.8363, 27.4757

30 minutes walk in.

+27 14 534 0114 www.mountain-sanctuary.co.za

Moderate, Suitable for children

About

The beautiful kloofs of the Magalies Mountains are only an hour’s drive from Johannesburg and Pretoria so are very popular with climbers in Gauteng. Most of the 1 800 or so routes are trad climbs, but there is sport climbing at Fernkloof and Wigwam. The climbs range from super-easy to those that will test the country’s top rock jocks. They are generally multi-pitch, on high quality quartzite with excellent natural protection.

Most of the crags are on land belonging to the Mountain Club of South Africa, so access is for hikers and climbers only. Two of the best areas are Cedarberg Kloof and Tonquani Kloof, which are easily accessed from Mountain Sanctuary Resort.

The upper Tonquani complex has plenty of easy climbing so is great for novices and intermediates. The routes are generally easy to find and they have been climbed a lot so there’s not much loose rock around. Many of the classics, including ‘Hawk’s Eye’, ‘Tonquani Crack’, ‘Tonquani Ridge’, ‘Donkerhoek Corner’, ‘The Moke’, ‘Red Corner’ and ‘Last Rites’ are concentrated in this area so you can quickly tick off lots of routes.

‘Golden Balls’ is a great route in Cedarberg Kloof. If you want long routes head to the junction area, accessed either by walking down Cedarberg Kloof or up Lower Tonquani Kloof.

Winter and spring are the best seasons for climbing in the Magaliesberg. Summers can be very hot and violent summer thunderstorms can make afternoon climbing quite exciting.

For more information and permits visit www.jhb.mcsa.org.za.

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