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White Umfolozi Rock Climbing

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72km from Vryheid

-28.2341, 31.1891

20 minutes walk in.

+27 35 450 2332

Moderate, Grade 8-27, Suitable for children


KwaZulu-Natal has some pretty impressive rock climbing areas, but the superb riverside location of the White Umfolozi crags is hard to beat. Over the millennia the river has cut a small gorge through the ancient Pongola quartzite. The resulting cliffs have been the main area of new trad route development in KZN over the last decade. In recent years many high quality sport routes in easy to moderate grades have been put up. Currently there are about 250 routes, over 100 of which are bolted.

The rock is generally superb and clean, particularly towards the downstream end of the crags where they are closer to river level. The quartzite here is extremely compact with a smooth texture. At the upstream end, which is highest above river level, the rock has a rough texture very similar to that of the Natal Group Sandstones.

The routes, which range from 5m to 45m in length, usually have good belay points at the top. Most of them can be easily top-roped. Small white arrows indicate the starts of many routes making life easy for first-timers.

With so much good climbing it’s hard to identify classics, but ‘Cat Woman’ (16), ‘Bat Man’ (17), ‘Sky Walker’ (17), ‘Stone Cold Jug’ (18) and ‘Psychobabble Rap’ (20) should be on everyone’s hit list.

The safety of the bolts on a few of the first routes opened in the early 90s may be questionable. Read the ‘Hazards’ section of the RDs and wear a helmet since there is a risk of knocking off loose gravel or rocks when topping out on some of the trad routes.

Winter is the best time to climb at the White Umfolozi; the valley may become uncomfortably hot during summer. Fortunately the aspects of the various walls are such that you can generally find shade. This part of the river is in an arid, rain-shadow area so the chances of rain in winter are close to zero and extremely low even in summer. It can be pouring with rain along the coast, yet still dry in this valley.

Camping, a rustic hut, a shower and a toilet are on the south bank. Bookings must be made in advance by ringing Mr Greef. The turn-off from the R34 to these facilities is exactly 1km south of the bridge over the river. There is currently no access via the north bank.

Rock Climbing at the White Umfolozi River by Gavin Peckham is an excellent guidebook that can be ordered from Gavin or at

Zululand & the Battlefields

KwaZulu Natal


It was from the bush and grassland of northern KwaZulu-Natal that the impis of King Shaka emerged, sweeping down onto the other tribes of the hinterland and eventually engaging the British forces and shaking the very roots of the Empire. At the height of its power, the Zulu nation covered 30 000km2, but 60 years after it was first formed, its reign was over. In those 60 years, the Zulus shaped the future of the country and were engaged in battles with the Boers and the British, but these were not the only bloody conflicts in the region. 

After the Zulu empire was broken, the English and the Boers fought for control of South Africa, with many battles taking place in Natal. While the best-known battles in the area are undoubtedly Isandlwana and Rorke’s Drift, as well as the siege of Ladysmith, there is fascinating history to be had at countless other ones. 

The beauty of the scenery clashes harshly with the devastating past, while the rough terrain makes one wonder how the machines of war were manhandled across the country, and how the Zulu impis managed to cover such vast distances in a single day, barefoot.

The regions of Zululand and the Battlefields merge together and are hard to separate, stretching from the northern and western KwaZulu-Natal borders to the towns of Ladysmith and Colenso in the south and towards the Elephant Coast in the east.

Zululand has managed to remain largely unaffected by industrial expansion and much of it remains farmland, timber plantations and rural wilderness, including beautiful Big-Five game reserves and grasslands. 

On the other hand there is the industrial hub of Richards Bay, the largest port in South Africa.

Tourism revolves around the natural beauty and diversity, as well as the haunting battlefields on which so many lost their lives and which are simply fascinating to visit, especially with a knowledgeable guide, of which there are a few.

Since this is the birthplace of the Zulu nation, it is also the place to come to grips with Zulu tradition, culture and history.

A number of cultural experiences exist, where tourists can become immersed in the local tradition and culture, learning a huge amount and enjoying themselves even more.

A few reserves in the region offer good game-viewing, from Weenen and Spioenkop in the south up to Ithala in the north. The diverse ecosystem means that hundreds of bird species are present, and a few notable bird-watching spots include the Dlinza and Ongoye forests, as well as the wetlands of Richards Bay.

An area as large and diverse will always have an almost endless array of attractions, and Zululand and the Battlefields are no different, from fishing in Richards Bay to horse-riding, mountain-biking, game-viewing and bird-watching. There is even a brewery to lighten the spirits when the history gets a little heavy.

Look out for

Zululand Brewery in Eshowe is a great place to pop in for a relaxing Zulu Blonde Export Ale, a beer that has won awards and rave reviews internationally. While you’re sitting at The Happy George Bar, ask around for recommendations on what’s new to do in the area.

The Dlinza and Ongoye Forests are serious birding hotspots and both are easily accessible. In fact, the Dlinza aerial boardwalk is something that even non-birders will enjoy and appreciate.

Isandlwana and Rorke’s Drift are the two seminal battlefields in the Battlefields tour and are both intensely fascinating and moving. A good guide is invaluable in bringing them to life. Ulundi and Blood River are also well worth visiting, giving different insights into the bloodshed that shaped this land.

Take a hike up Majuba or Spioenkop mountains, both of which offer sensational views in addition to stirring battlefield history. The historic O’Neills cottage, where a peace treaty was signed to end the first Anglo-War, lies at the base of Majuba.

The majestic Ithala Game Reserve in the very north of KwaZulu-Natal offers good game-viewing and bird-watching, as well as epic scenery of mountains and valleys. While there is a variety of accommodation, the pick of it is undoubtedly the bush camps that can be booked out for your group.

Every year the Zulu nation holds the Reed Ceremony near the eNyokeni Royal residence in Nongoma north of Melmoth, thousands of maidens gathering to pay their respect to their king. This happens in spring and visitors from all over the world come to watch the women dance and sing to King Goodwill Zwelithini in his ceremonial regalia.

The eMakhosini Ophate Heritage Park should not be missed by anyone with a sense of history. It is the birthplace of the Zulu clan and what is known as the Valley of the Kings. The Spirit of eMakhosini memorial and an educational multimedia centre are worth a visit, and there is also game, including the rare oribi antelope and black rhino.

Immerse yourself in the Zulu culture at a place like Shakaland and watch Zulu dancing, ask a sangoma (witch doctor) for his sage advice, sample traditional Zulu beer, listen to singing and perhaps try out a few simple phrases for yourself. Arts and crafts are also on sale and make wonderful gifts and souvenirs.

When to go

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