Bell River, Middle Section
Close - 20 min from Rhodes
This hallowed stream rises on the escarpment near Tenahead Lodge. The high-altitude portion of this water is characterised by shallow, fast-flowing water over bedrock streambeds. Occasional boulders, that had their origins on the surrounding peaks, lie in the streambed and influence the flow. The well-grassed banks often have very productive undercuts. No trees survive here, but you will see alpine flowers in season. Closer to its source, the Bell River flows through a valley with a relatively small, one-sided flood plain with a few contributing wetlands. The river then flows into a gorge and through a schism in the landscape, losing altitude rapidly over a relatively short distance.
The Bell picks up a few tributaries on the way downstream, namely the Kloppershoek, Carlisleshoek and Maartenshoek streams. Further downstream, where the gradient flattens out, the river widens its meanders and flattens, now with sand and gravel bottoms. The banks used to be shaded by crack willow trees (Salix fragilis), but a government sponsored “Working for Water” program has eradicated most these. Although most people fish the Bell for trout, yellowfish is occasionally encountered, as they move up towards the source to spawn during the warmer months. Beware of the sun and elements when visiting the higher beats; in the mountains, prevailing conditions can change rapidly.
Mavisbank (Fred Steynberg)
The Kloppershoek road ends at this property. Park here and walk upstream. Boulder-strewn runs link the boulder-strewn bedrock pools of the lower reaches. Lots of boulders! Higher up the pools are scoured out of basaltic bedrock. The gradient eases as one moves downstream. The riparian vegetation is mostly scrub or bush and at times there are weathering basalt banks. Brown trout may be caught among the rainbows here.
Mertoun (Fred Steynberg)
Shaded parking can be found on the far side of the bridge that crosses the Bell River, just below its confluence with the Kloppershoekspruit. The lower part of the Kloppershoek forms part of the beat, up to and past the old homestead, and can produce great fishing if the water is good. Most of this stretch consists of basaltic bedrock and there are no pools to speak of. There is some varied water on the Bell downstream of the confluence with the Kloppershoekspruit. There are rock-strewn bedrock pools at the top, deeper sandy-bottomed pools in the middle and shallower bedrock pools near the downstream boundary, which is a waterfall.
Park Gate (Francois and Hannelie Nel)
The spectacular visage of the river horseshoeing twice on itself from the road above makes this a unique venue. Rock- and boulder-strewn streambeds higher up on this beat gradually change to smooth bedrock streambeds lower down. This is wonderful water and carries a large population of fish. It is particularly good for sight fishing. Try this beat on windy days. It is often fishable, when other, more open beats turn to misery. Park Gate offers elf-catering accommodation in the old farmstead on the farm.
Druid’s Temple (WTA)
Druid’s Temple is where the middle Bell begins and the river starts to widen out and slow down. Enter the river near the poplar forest at the lower boundary and work your way upstream. The riverbed changes over the course of the beat, from sandy bottoms lower down to boulder-strewn runs with occasional small, relatively shallow pools near the top of the beat. There is also some small intimate water, which is usually teeming with smaller fish. Its proximity to Rhodes makes for a great half-day fishing, which is particularly useful for a first afternoon’s fishing – just to get the cobwebs out after the long drive.
The Bell flows out of the poplar forest and down through cultivated pastures. Pools diminish in size as the stream continues on its course downwards. The river braids and runs through a cobbled section and at some point presses right up against the mountain. This is fast, clean water and there are a few weeping willows lining the bank on the lower portion. The fish in the lower, shallower section can spook very easily, particularly when water levels are low. Self-catering accommodation is available on the property, but unfortunately not at the riverside.
This beat is fished downstream from the bridge over the Bell River, just east of Rhodes. The Bell portion of this beat is cobbled or sandy bottomed. The Carlisleshoekspruit joins the Bell just a little way into the beat. It is a very small stream that flows through pastures, and can quickly pick up colour after rains. However, it generally flows clear and can be a useful standby when other waters in the area are running murky.
The Rhodes commonage (Open access)
This water is situated below the village and is open access. You do not need a booking in order to fish it. The beat starts at the eastern boundary of the village and stretches to the bottom of the irrigated fields below the village. The substrate varies from cobbles upstream to sandy bottomed in the lower reaches.
Bell Fly Fishing, Mavisbank Gate
Bell Fly Fishing, Mertoun
Bell Fly Fishing, Park Gate Gate
Druid’s Temple Parking
Bell Fly Fishing, Lovedale Gate
Bell Fly Fishing, Newstead
The Friendly N6 route runs between Bloemfontein and East London, connecting the provinces of the Free State and the Eastern Cape. Aliwal North is at the border of the 2 provinces.
South Africa is famous for horizons that stretch for kilometres, so wide open spaces and endless skies are a traveller’s constant companions on the N6. The route takes one through about 600km of peaceful, diverse and beautiful land, giving one a sense of just how vast the country really is.
The N6’s attractions include everything from sea to snow, interspersed with charming towns. These are only slightly off the beaten highway, and are intriguing and pleasant places to explore. In the Free State, Bethulie and Zastron are within easy travelling distance of the N6, while Reddersburg, Smithfield and Rouxville are main stops along the route.
In the Eastern Cape the towns of Dordrecht, Molteno, Elliot, Rhodes, Burgersdorp, Barkly East and Lady Grey are all worthwhile diversions for curious travellers with time on their hands. For those sticking to the highway, Aliwal North, Jamestown, Queenstown, Cathcart and Stutterheim are along the route. These provide a sufficient diversity of interests and activities for guests. The highway is also relatively close to the Gariep Dam, Oviston and Hogsback Nature Reserves.
Sprawling sheep farms are probably the most obvious and frequent feature of the landscape, but the area is rich in cultural significance and interest.
Apart from San (or Bushman) history and rock art, there are also interesting museums and art galleries, and fine local arts and crafts. The route’s proximity to the mountain kingdom of Lesotho means that Basotho culture is an important and unique influence on the culture of the area. Xhosa culture is proudly and strongly entrenched in the Eastern Cape.
The hills and towns of this area were witness to the Great Trek. This was the migration of the ‘Trekboers’ from the Eastern Cape across the Gariep River, (previously the Orange River) further into the central interior. It is often mentioned as an example of Afrikaner rebellion, perseverance and endurance.
This same Afrikaner resilience cost Britain an unanticipated £190 million in the South African (or Anglo-Boer) War, which is commemorated at many sites and towns along the N6 route.
Travelling south to East London from Aliwal North, tourists are afforded a majestic view of the Maluti mountains of Lesotho, as well as a sample of the Great Karoo in Stutterheim and Queenstown. East London itself is a lovely city which really lives up to the ‘friendly’ N6 brand. It has some interesting tangible links to prehistory: the East London Museum displays the last remaining dodo egg, as well as the body of a coelacanth, one of the oldest species on the planet. This fish was thought to be extinct until one was found alive on a fishing boat in the East London harbour in 1938.
Look out for
Relax and rejuvenate in Aliwal North’s hot springs and appreciate its beautiful old buildings.
The Kologha Forest and the Kubisi Indigenous State Forests are less than 10km from Stutterheim. Large swathes of ancient indigenous forest are home to yellowwoods, ironwoods, white stinkwoods, Cape holly and Cape chestnuts with montane grassland cresting the slopes. Six well-marked forest trails, from 3-17km long, start and end at the Kologha Picnic site. They lead to waterfalls and good trout fishing and birdwatching spots. Rare birds found here include the endangered Cape parrot, grey-crowned crane and white-starred robin. Mountain biking and horse riding are allowed on certain trails. Maps are available at the forest kiosk.
The Thomas River Historical Village is in the Amathole mountain region on the 31 000ha Thomas River Conservancy between Stutterheim and Cathcart on the N6 highway. The area was named after Thomas Bentley, a deserter from the Van Der Kemps Missionary who was shot dead with an arrow while crossing the river. The conservancy offers a variety of outdoor activities including hunting, hiking, rock art talks and trails, fishing, birding, and paintball. The village dates back to the 1870s, has a popular restaurant and houses museums themed on wagons, rock art, pubs and vintage motor cars.
Mgwali Cultural Village near Stutterheim showcases Xhosa culture, with crafts and traditional food on sale.
Tiffindell Ski and Alpine Resortnear the picturesque village of Rhodes is South Africa’s only ski resort. It offers snow adventures on the slopes of Ben McDhui, the tallest mountain in the Eastern Cape.
Lady Grey and Cathcart are quaint, peaceful towns to visit. There is a Cape vulture sanctuary 12km from Lady Grey at the Karringmelkspruit gorge. Cathcart is known for its wildflowers, San rock art, excellent hang-gliding launch sites, fishing, birdwatching and adventure activities.
Malaria-free game viewing is possible at the Lawrence De Lange Nature and the Longhill Nature Reserve near Queenstown, as well as at Tsolwana Game Reserve near Tarkastad. Big 5 game viewing is possible at the Mpongo and Inkwenkwezi Private Game Reserves, both within 35km of East London.
At the N6 route’s end, East London, visit the Python Park and Lion Park, the Queen’s Park Zoo, the East London museum and the aquarium. Enjoy the shopping, restaurants and, of course, surf the waves. The Calgary Transport Museum (5km north of East London on the N6) has a quaint collection of carts, wagons and buggies. It is open daily from 09h00 to 16h30.