Coastal Fynbos TrailEnquire Now
15km from Port Elizabeth
+27 41 374 2775 www.nmbt.co.za
Easy to moderate difficulty; Suitable for children
This circular trail starts at Sappershoek, which is located at the east end of the seaside village of Schoenmakerskop.
The complex geology, together with variations in topography and the influence of salt-laden winds and fire, have led to a mosaic of vegetation types.
The area between Schoenmakerskop and Summerstrand is known as Driftsands after the shifting bypass sand-dune system that used to cover the area. The sands were stabilised at the beginning of the 1900s by the planting of rooikrans, Port Jackson and eucalyptus trees in an attempt to start a commercial forest. Poor conditions meant that the trees were never harvested commercially, but the alien vegetation introduced during these times prevented indigenous vegetation from growing. Many of the aliens have now been cleared from the trail area, allowing the indigenous plants to become re-established.
Park your car at Sappershoek and then follow the Coastal Fynbos signs up the hill. After a couple of kilometres of walking through the coastal fynbos, you’ll see a short cut back to the start (a four-kilometre loop), but the main trail continues for another 1,5 kilometres to a cellphone tower from where there are outstanding views over the rugged coastline.
The fynbos and coastal dune thicket mosaic is much taller in this area than on most of the rest of the trail and the fynbos is dominated by blombos (Metalasia or white bristle bush) and buccu (Agathosma). Fires have prevented the coastal dune thicket from dominating here and in spring the orchids are particularly beautiful.
Look out for the Thysbe’s Copper butterfly, that reaches its easternmost limit here. It has a blue hue in flight but appears orange at rest. You might also see small grey and yellow mongooses scuttling across the path, as well as Cape grysbok.
From the cellphone tower, you head to the coast and return to Sappershoek along the top of the ridge overlooking the sea. If you’re on the trail between August and early October, there’s a good chance of spotting southern right whales from this vantage point. You may also see humpback whales migrating along this stretch of coast between April and early December and they often give spectacular displays.
The trail is free and, as with most semi-urban trails, walking in groups is advisable.
With the most recorded sunshine hours in South Africa, the name Sunshine Coast is no idle boast or empty promise. Situated between Port Elizabeth and East London, the quaintness of the Sunshine Coast is a welcome escape from big-city bustle.
The area includes the inland towns of Alexandria, Salem and Bathhurst, with kilometres of beaches accessed via Cannon Rocks, Boknes, Bushmans River Mouth, Kenton-on-sea, Kasouga, Port Alfred and the Great Fish River area. The mixed derivations of these names suggest the rich cultural heritage of the area – the primary meeting point of San, Xhosa, Boer and British. The British influence is clear in the architecture of Bathhurst, Salem and Grahamstown.
Driving on the N2 or its tributaries the R67 or R72, the rolling green hills Lord Charles Somerset likened to English parklands were not exactly what the settlers expected. The unique dark golden-green shade of the Albany Thicket biome is due to the dense growth of hardy drought-resistant plants such as aloe, euphorbia and spekboom. Rain falls in winter and summer, and while not frequent, it is at times unpredictable, so the vegetation is built to withstand fickle skies.
Although unattractively scrubby to some, the Thicket contains 20% of the 316 threatened plant species found in the Eastern Cape, making it an important centre of endemism.
One is tempted to describe this beautiful and unusual landscape as “untouched”, but the area has long been farmed, with cattle, sheep, ostriches, pineapples and chicory among its historically successful concerns. Many farms have since been converted back into game reserves, such as the world-class, malaria-free Kariega and Shamwari Reserves. Game fences line the long, quiet, tarred roads and drivers are often startled at the sight of elephants, giraffes or other game grazing along the fences.
Drivers should also look out for smaller wildlife - porcupines, small antelope, hares, snakes, owls and tortoises - crossing the roads at dawn, dusk and at night.
The beaches and dunes of this coastline are magnificent. The Alexandria dunefield - famously the largest active dunefield in the world - and the exquisite Alexandria State Forest have been absorbed by the Greater Addo Elephant National Park.
While Kenton-on-sea and Port Alfred are the main seaside attractions, the family-oriented Cannon Rocks, Boknes and Kasouga are popular places to buy holiday homes and have a few lovely self-catering and guest cottages.
The Dias Cross at Kwaaihoek is a replica of the padrão erected there by Portuguese explorer Bartholomeu Dias on his 1488 cruise past the South African coast. At the Cross there is a deck for dolphin sightings and whale-spotting in late spring and early summer. In season, southern right whales are sighted all along the Sunshine Coast.
Despite its fairly good roads and obvious attractions, this area is still, miraculously, relatively unspoilt and undeveloped. With the exception of the graceful Port Alfred Marina, attempts to beat its bush and rivers into commercial shape have been abandoned and it remains gentle, peaceful, simple, pristine and soul-enriching.
Situated on the Indian Ocean, one needn’t expect the “bath water” temperatures of KwaZulu-Natal - Sunshine Coast swims are invigoratingly cool and sometimes chilly, but seldom as achingly cold as the Western Cape.
The area doesn’t have the same flashy allure as other popular seaside destinations, but if you think of the coast as a place to relax and unwind, rather than paint the town red, there is no better place to visit.
Look out for
Addo Elephant National Park, 30 minutes from PE, features the “Big Seven” (the Big Five, plus southern right whales and great white sharks).
Explore Alexandria’s dunefields on the two-day Alexandria Hiking Trail or the seven-kilometre Dassie Day Trail, named for a rare tree dassie in the area.
Bathurst - founded in 1820, this “English country village in Africa”, 10 minutes from Port Alfred, is home to the Pig & Whistle, the oldest pub in South Africa, and the 16,7-metre-high Big Pineapple.
With unspoiled beaches, the tiny villages of Cannon Rocks, Boknes, Kleinemonde are a fisherman’s and bird-watcher’s paradise. Cannon Rocks is named for its two cannons and anchor. The Dias Cross at Kwaaihoek is an uplifting thee-kilometre walk from Boknes across incredible sandy beaches, or a six-kilometre walk at low tide from Bushmans River.
Bushmans River – the second-longest navigable river in South Africa, with 22 kilometres of navigable water, is a favourite with canoeists, sailors, water-skiers and fishermen.
Kasouga – maintains its rustic beginnings with dirt roads and no streetlights, hotels and shops, wonderful birdlife and an exquisite lagoon.
Port Alfred – enjoy the elegance of the Royal Alfred Marina. Famous for its annual powerboat race, Port Alfred offers provides great shopping, dining, and beauty retreats.
The Sunshine Coast, and nearby holiday meccas such as Great Fish River, St Francis Bay, Cape St Francis, Jeffreys Bay, Tsitsikamma and the Wild Coast, offers excellent surfing, adventure and water sports, fishing, nature reserves and world-class hikes, mountain biking, canoeing, beach horse-rides, bird watching, 4x4 trails, game-viewing, golf, and as well as rich local arts and culture.