Joan Muirhead TrailEnquire Now
+27 46 648 2411 www.kenton.co.za
Easy trail; Suitable for children.
Kenton-on-Sea is a peaceful little town for most of the year but buzzes with activity in holiday season. This little corner of the Sunshine Coast is the ideal family escape, where you can enjoy fishing, swimming, excellent snorkelling, paddling, hiking or simply absorbing the sun on one of the unspoilt beaches. The town is sandwiched between two large tidal rivers, the Bushmans and the Kariega, and the Joan Muirhead Nature Reserve, which separates the town from the sea, totally blocks all property development along the stunning coastline.
Walks start on either side of the town but a popular starting point is the car park beside the Bushmans River. The forested area on the left is filled with large protected milkwood trees and thick bush, so the easiest way to hit the trail is to head straight up onto the dunes. It's tempting to go barefoot, and your shoes will probably fill with sand on this first stretch, but don't leave them behind as the rocky cliffs that come later will skin bare feet.
Cross the next rocky beach - a popular fishing area - then, just before you reach a long open stretch of beach, you’ll see a trail heading up around some vegetated dunes, which leads between coastal forest and some houses back to the car. Watch your step as you go as several sea birds, including the African black oystercatcher, nest along this strip.Looking over the mouth of the river and rugged coastline from the top of the first dune, you already have a feeling of being out in the wilderness. Once you are around the corner, you'll find the first of many interesting weathered rock formations.
Cross the beach onto some wave-cut platforms and, if the tide is out, scramble around the base of some incredibly sharp cliffs. If the tide is in, follow the track over the top to the next beach, which is an excellent spot to swim as the cliffs on either side form protective arms against the sea. From here, the trail once again heads up onto the cliffs, from where, between May and December, you’ll often see southern right whales.
We have been told that the trail is in the process of being upgraded by Nature Conservation, so for the moment, it might be easier to stick to the coastal part of the trail.
With the most recorded sunshine hours in South Africa, the name Sunshine Coast is no idle boast or empty promise. Situated between Port Elizabeth and East London, the quaintness of the Sunshine Coast is a welcome escape from big-city bustle.
The area includes the inland towns of Alexandria, Salem and Bathhurst, with kilometres of beaches accessed via Cannon Rocks, Boknes, Bushmans River Mouth, Kenton-on-sea, Kasouga, Port Alfred and the Great Fish River area. The mixed derivations of these names suggest the rich cultural heritage of the area – the primary meeting point of San, Xhosa, Boer and British. The British influence is clear in the architecture of Bathhurst, Salem and Grahamstown.
Driving on the N2 or its tributaries the R67 or R72, the rolling green hills Lord Charles Somerset likened to English parklands were not exactly what the settlers expected. The unique dark golden-green shade of the Albany Thicket biome is due to the dense growth of hardy drought-resistant plants such as aloe, euphorbia and spekboom. Rain falls in winter and summer, and while not frequent, it is at times unpredictable, so the vegetation is built to withstand fickle skies.
Although unattractively scrubby to some, the Thicket contains 20% of the 316 threatened plant species found in the Eastern Cape, making it an important centre of endemism.
One is tempted to describe this beautiful and unusual landscape as “untouched”, but the area has long been farmed, with cattle, sheep, ostriches, pineapples and chicory among its historically successful concerns. Many farms have since been converted back into game reserves, such as the world-class, malaria-free Kariega and Shamwari Reserves. Game fences line the long, quiet, tarred roads and drivers are often startled at the sight of elephants, giraffes or other game grazing along the fences.
Drivers should also look out for smaller wildlife - porcupines, small antelope, hares, snakes, owls and tortoises - crossing the roads at dawn, dusk and at night.
The beaches and dunes of this coastline are magnificent. The Alexandria dunefield - famously the largest active dunefield in the world - and the exquisite Alexandria State Forest have been absorbed by the Greater Addo Elephant National Park.
While Kenton-on-sea and Port Alfred are the main seaside attractions, the family-oriented Cannon Rocks, Boknes and Kasouga are popular places to buy holiday homes and have a few lovely self-catering and guest cottages.
The Dias Cross at Kwaaihoek is a replica of the padrão erected there by Portuguese explorer Bartholomeu Dias on his 1488 cruise past the South African coast. At the Cross there is a deck for dolphin sightings and whale-spotting in late spring and early summer. In season, southern right whales are sighted all along the Sunshine Coast.
Despite its fairly good roads and obvious attractions, this area is still, miraculously, relatively unspoilt and undeveloped. With the exception of the graceful Port Alfred Marina, attempts to beat its bush and rivers into commercial shape have been abandoned and it remains gentle, peaceful, simple, pristine and soul-enriching.
Situated on the Indian Ocean, one needn’t expect the “bath water” temperatures of KwaZulu-Natal - Sunshine Coast swims are invigoratingly cool and sometimes chilly, but seldom as achingly cold as the Western Cape.
The area doesn’t have the same flashy allure as other popular seaside destinations, but if you think of the coast as a place to relax and unwind, rather than paint the town red, there is no better place to visit.
Look out for
Addo Elephant National Park, 30 minutes from PE, features the “Big Seven” (the Big Five, plus southern right whales and great white sharks).
Explore Alexandria’s dunefields on the two-day Alexandria Hiking Trail or the seven-kilometre Dassie Day Trail, named for a rare tree dassie in the area.
Bathurst - founded in 1820, this “English country village in Africa”, 10 minutes from Port Alfred, is home to the Pig & Whistle, the oldest pub in South Africa, and the 16,7-metre-high Big Pineapple.
With unspoiled beaches, the tiny villages of Cannon Rocks, Boknes, Kleinemonde are a fisherman’s and bird-watcher’s paradise. Cannon Rocks is named for its two cannons and anchor. The Dias Cross at Kwaaihoek is an uplifting thee-kilometre walk from Boknes across incredible sandy beaches, or a six-kilometre walk at low tide from Bushmans River.
Bushmans River – the second-longest navigable river in South Africa, with 22 kilometres of navigable water, is a favourite with canoeists, sailors, water-skiers and fishermen.
Kasouga – maintains its rustic beginnings with dirt roads and no streetlights, hotels and shops, wonderful birdlife and an exquisite lagoon.
Port Alfred – enjoy the elegance of the Royal Alfred Marina. Famous for its annual powerboat race, Port Alfred offers provides great shopping, dining, and beauty retreats.
The Sunshine Coast, and nearby holiday meccas such as Great Fish River, St Francis Bay, Cape St Francis, Jeffreys Bay, Tsitsikamma and the Wild Coast, offers excellent surfing, adventure and water sports, fishing, nature reserves and world-class hikes, mountain biking, canoeing, beach horse-rides, bird watching, 4x4 trails, game-viewing, golf, and as well as rich local arts and culture.