Pholela River TrailEnquire Now
13km from Himeville
+27 33 702 0831 www.kznwildlife.com
Moderate to hard trail; Suitable for children if staying overnight in cave, otherwise too long.
The Pholela is among the most popular fishing and hiking valleys of the southern Berg, not least for the stupendous, sweeping views up to the prominent Giant's Cup formation (otherwise known as Hodgson's Peaks and named after an early colonial settler, Thomas Hodgson, who was killed by a Bushman's poisoned arrow while out retrieving stolen cattle in 1862).
Starting from the Cobham KZN Wildlife camp site, this hike takes you to the Lake District, an area on top of the Little Berg much favoured by the eland herds that roam the high plateaus. It gives you access to some of the finest rock paintings in the Drakensberg - the Siphongweni Shelter, with its famous depictions of floppy-hatted horsemen carrying rifles, as well as sheep and wagons. If you are keen to see the rock art, organise a guide at the office. There is a longer but less severe way up this plateau a little further up the river, but it misses the rock art site.
There is a confusing network of paths around the camp site, so aim for the end of a row of trees that lines the paddock heading towards the river. You can save yourself a meandering walk along the river by taking the straight path immediately to the left, which meets the river a short way up.
After 3,5 kilometres, take the well-maintained path directly up the hill on your left - a steep, one-kilometre section rising 250 metres in one continuous stretch. It’s the only severe section of the hike, so take it easy and pace yourself. This takes you to the summit plateau of the Little Berg, rising up to eSiphongweni Point to your left and the rounded spur of the Whale Back to your right.
The path to the Lakes Cave keeps to the right-hand side of the Whale Back spur, a fairly gentle 5,5-kilometre walk through the montane grasslands. The lakes in question are really quite small mountain tarns, sitting in two main clusters on the rump of the spur behind (to the south of) the cave, which looks north onto the Nhlangeni stream. You can return down the Nhlangeni valley, passing the smaller Nutcracker Cave on your left after a couple of kilometres, and then meet up with the Pholela.
The Drakensberg mountain range begins its rise in the Eastern Cape, running along the length of KwaZulu-Natal’s western border. It also extends in fits and starts into Mpumalanga and covers a vast area stretching into the mountain kingdom of Lesotho.
It is generally agreed that the ‘Dragon mountains’ got their name from their ragged, irregular silhouette that looks like a dragon’s back from a distance. It was so-named by Dutch settlers. Another, albeit less popular, explanation is that early settlers were told by the locals that dragons lived in the mountains. This theory was given a bit more credence when numerous dinosaur footprints were discovered in the Eastern Free State.
The Zulu tribe has given the mountains its own, equally descriptive name – Ukhahlamba, or ‘the barrier of spears’. Whatever the language and whatever the explanation, there is no argument that the Drakensberg mountains are evocative and mysterious. It is a wild and beautiful area that can change from sunny to snowy in mere moments.
In 2001 a park was established that encompasses a huge tract of the mountains. Known as the Maloti-Drakensberg Transfrontier Conservation Area, it covers 13 000km² of Lesotho and KwaZulu-Natal. It includes the Ukhahlamba Drakensberg Park, a World Heritage Site that by itself covers some 2 400km² and is 150km long.
The Ukhahlamba Drakensberg Park is a place of immense beauty and enormous spaces. It is one of the few true remaining wildernesses where hikers can walk for days without encountering other people.
It is no surprise, then, that this place is as dangerous as it is beautiful, and one must be well-prepared if tackling it on foot.
In the very north of the park is Royal Natal National Park. It is one of the jewels in the crown of Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife and the proud guardian of the world famous ‘Amphitheatre’. This can be easily viewed from the road to the main camp of the park. A short walk along the river gives amazing photographic opportunities. The attractions of this park are many, from pleasant walks to fly-fishing and swimming in clear mountain streams. It is also home to the 850m-high Tugela Falls, the highest waterfall in Africa and the second highest in the world.
Other notable parks within the greater Drakensberg Park are Giant’s Castle, Kamberg and Loteni Nature Reserves. Each has its own attractions, capable of keeping the tourist busy for days on end.
The Drakensberg was declared a World Heritage Site for a number of reasons. It is an area of incredible natural diversity with over 2 100 plant species, more than 200 of which are endemic to the area. It is also home to over 60 species of mammal, including the threatened oribi and herds of eland and black wildebeest. It has nearly 50 species of reptile and more than 300 bird species. The naturalist will definitely find a visit to the Drakensberg incredibly rewarding.
No less interesting is the human history of the area. A prime drawcard is the San rock art. Excellent examples can be seen in Giant’s Castle. There is also a recreation of how these people prospered in the mountains until they were ruthlessly hunted out of existence by both black and white settlers.
Look out for
The Bushmen paintings are a unique art form that shrouded in mystery and deserving of at least an afternoon’s attention. The fact that they are almost always to be found in remote, beautiful caves adds to their allure. And the walk there adds to the attraction.
Hiking is one of the most popular pastimes in the Drakensberg. Depending on fitness and time, hikers can choose from short but beautiful walks to multi-day hikes. On the latter one needs to be entirely self-sufficient and equipped for inclement weather - including snow - no matter what time of the year it is.
The Giants Cup Hiking Trail is the premier ‘Berg hike, totalling almost 60km and usually taking five days to complete. It runs from Sani Pass to Busman’s Nek in the south.
The Amphitheatre in the Royal Natal National Park is one of the first things that should be put on the ‘To Do’ list. You haven’t really been to the Drakensberg until you’ve viewed it from below - and then again from the top. Here you will encounter one of the most breathtaking views in South Africa.
Fly-fishing is another excellent reason to visit the Drakensberg. KZN-Ezemvelo has a collection of very good trout waters in their reserves. Other dams and rivers are privately owned, but many are accessible to fisherman for a day fee.
The Lammergeier Hide at Giant’s Castle is an amazing place from which to get incredible sightings and photographs of birds. Highlights are the bearded vulture, Verreaux’s eagle, white-necked raven, lanner falcon and Cape vulture. Many smaller species can also be spotted. Booking is essential.
Sani Pass is one of South Africa’s great drives. In winter the pass is often closed due to ice and snow and can be a very hazardous drive. Remember that a passport is necessary to get onto the pass and a 4x4 vehicle is required by law.