Roseate Tern TrailEnquire Now
10km from Port Elizabeth
+27 41 585 9711, +27 82 462 3624 www.nmbt.co.za
Easy to moderate difficulty; Suitable for children
The Roseate Tern Hiking trail is in the 366-hectare Cape Recife Nature Reserve just west of Port Elizabeth and is regarded as one of the prime bird-watching venues around the city. In addition to beautiful unspoilt beaches, the nine-kilometre circular trail takes in natural dune vegetation, rocky outcrops, a lighthouse, an old military observation post and a bird hide.
The trail, which is marked in turquoise paint, starts at the SAMREC centre, which is a short drive from the reserve entrance gate (next to Pine Lodge Holiday Resort off Marine Drive, Summerstrand), where there’s a cafe and safe parking. You can pick up a map and permit here and the small trail fee includes a tour of the penguin rehabilitation centre.
As you walk from the centre towards the beach, you come to a small wooden deck with a fantastic view over Algoa Bay. Turn right as you step onto the white sands of this beautiful coast and walk towards the lighthouse. Turn right again at a concrete outlet pipe coming in from the reclamation works and then cross the road onto a path that meanders through coastal fynbos to a bird hide, from where, in addition to the obvious water birds and waders, Cape clawless otter are sometimes seen swimming in the early morning or at dusk.
The trail now goes along the causeway to the top of the reclamation dam before it turns left, following a reed bank on a section of the Bush Pig Trail for a couple of kilometres back to the beach. Turn right and go all the way to the lighthouse, which was built in 1851, the fourth in the Cape colony and the first in the Eastern Cape. Originally the 24-metre tower had two bands of white and red, but in 1929 these were changed to black and white so it was more visible against the vegetation. Its light can be seen from 29 nautical miles away, but Thunderbolt Reef has seen many shipwrecks, including the Kapodistrias in 1985. At low tide, the rock pools, which are filled with starfish, sea anemones and urchins, are fantastic to explore. Several pairs of oystercatchers and terns roost along this stretch of coast and it’s one of the best places in South Africa to see the rare Roseate tern and, in winter, the Antarctic tern.
Once past shell beach, the trail turns inland and climbs a hill crossing the road before reaching the ruins of the Second World War barracks, which offer good views over the bay. Heading over some vegetated dunes, the trail returns to the ponds. From here, either retrace your steps or branch off just before the hide and cut back to the SAMREC centre on the road.
SAMREC is open from 8.30am to 5pm. Entrance is free if you park outside the reserve, but it's a fair walk to the start of the trail.
With the most recorded sunshine hours in South Africa, the name Sunshine Coast is no idle boast or empty promise. Situated between Port Elizabeth and East London, the quaintness of the Sunshine Coast is a welcome escape from big-city bustle.
The area includes the inland towns of Alexandria, Salem and Bathhurst, with kilometres of beaches accessed via Cannon Rocks, Boknes, Bushmans River Mouth, Kenton-on-sea, Kasouga, Port Alfred and the Great Fish River area. The mixed derivations of these names suggest the rich cultural heritage of the area – the primary meeting point of San, Xhosa, Boer and British. The British influence is clear in the architecture of Bathhurst, Salem and Grahamstown.
Driving on the N2 or its tributaries the R67 or R72, the rolling green hills Lord Charles Somerset likened to English parklands were not exactly what the settlers expected. The unique dark golden-green shade of the Albany Thicket biome is due to the dense growth of hardy drought-resistant plants such as aloe, euphorbia and spekboom. Rain falls in winter and summer, and while not frequent, it is at times unpredictable, so the vegetation is built to withstand fickle skies.
Although unattractively scrubby to some, the Thicket contains 20% of the 316 threatened plant species found in the Eastern Cape, making it an important centre of endemism.
One is tempted to describe this beautiful and unusual landscape as “untouched”, but the area has long been farmed, with cattle, sheep, ostriches, pineapples and chicory among its historically successful concerns. Many farms have since been converted back into game reserves, such as the world-class, malaria-free Kariega and Shamwari Reserves. Game fences line the long, quiet, tarred roads and drivers are often startled at the sight of elephants, giraffes or other game grazing along the fences.
Drivers should also look out for smaller wildlife - porcupines, small antelope, hares, snakes, owls and tortoises - crossing the roads at dawn, dusk and at night.
The beaches and dunes of this coastline are magnificent. The Alexandria dunefield - famously the largest active dunefield in the world - and the exquisite Alexandria State Forest have been absorbed by the Greater Addo Elephant National Park.
While Kenton-on-sea and Port Alfred are the main seaside attractions, the family-oriented Cannon Rocks, Boknes and Kasouga are popular places to buy holiday homes and have a few lovely self-catering and guest cottages.
The Dias Cross at Kwaaihoek is a replica of the padrão erected there by Portuguese explorer Bartholomeu Dias on his 1488 cruise past the South African coast. At the Cross there is a deck for dolphin sightings and whale-spotting in late spring and early summer. In season, southern right whales are sighted all along the Sunshine Coast.
Despite its fairly good roads and obvious attractions, this area is still, miraculously, relatively unspoilt and undeveloped. With the exception of the graceful Port Alfred Marina, attempts to beat its bush and rivers into commercial shape have been abandoned and it remains gentle, peaceful, simple, pristine and soul-enriching.
Situated on the Indian Ocean, one needn’t expect the “bath water” temperatures of KwaZulu-Natal - Sunshine Coast swims are invigoratingly cool and sometimes chilly, but seldom as achingly cold as the Western Cape.
The area doesn’t have the same flashy allure as other popular seaside destinations, but if you think of the coast as a place to relax and unwind, rather than paint the town red, there is no better place to visit.
Look out for
Addo Elephant National Park, 30 minutes from PE, features the “Big Seven” (the Big Five, plus southern right whales and great white sharks).
Explore Alexandria’s dunefields on the two-day Alexandria Hiking Trail or the seven-kilometre Dassie Day Trail, named for a rare tree dassie in the area.
Bathurst - founded in 1820, this “English country village in Africa”, 10 minutes from Port Alfred, is home to the Pig & Whistle, the oldest pub in South Africa, and the 16,7-metre-high Big Pineapple.
With unspoiled beaches, the tiny villages of Cannon Rocks, Boknes, Kleinemonde are a fisherman’s and bird-watcher’s paradise. Cannon Rocks is named for its two cannons and anchor. The Dias Cross at Kwaaihoek is an uplifting thee-kilometre walk from Boknes across incredible sandy beaches, or a six-kilometre walk at low tide from Bushmans River.
Bushmans River – the second-longest navigable river in South Africa, with 22 kilometres of navigable water, is a favourite with canoeists, sailors, water-skiers and fishermen.
Kasouga – maintains its rustic beginnings with dirt roads and no streetlights, hotels and shops, wonderful birdlife and an exquisite lagoon.
Port Alfred – enjoy the elegance of the Royal Alfred Marina. Famous for its annual powerboat race, Port Alfred offers provides great shopping, dining, and beauty retreats.
The Sunshine Coast, and nearby holiday meccas such as Great Fish River, St Francis Bay, Cape St Francis, Jeffreys Bay, Tsitsikamma and the Wild Coast, offers excellent surfing, adventure and water sports, fishing, nature reserves and world-class hikes, mountain biking, canoeing, beach horse-rides, bird watching, 4x4 trails, game-viewing, golf, and as well as rich local arts and culture.