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Battle Cave

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53km from Winterton

-29.1567, 29.4158

 

+27 36 431 9000, +27 11 717 6056 www.sarada.co.za

About

Battle Cave is named for a famous fight scene that it depicts. It is one of the few places where the public can see such a painting in South Africa. Elements of this painting suggest that it was not a ‘real’ fight. The site is located in the Ukuhlamba-Drakensberg World Heritage Park and is approached from the Injisuthi Camp, operated by Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife.

To visit the site a long but easy walk on a path is required. The site is ideal for those who do not want an arduous journey to see rock art but who also do not wish to be jostled among a mass of tourists. Walking through the emerald-green grass of the Drakensberg in summer with spectacular views of the spine of the escarpment is one of the great pleasures the country has to offer travellers.

The splendid battle scene is to the far right of the shelter. The human figures appear to be arranged in a composition that suggests a fight. Some figures have arrows notched to their bows, others have spears that they point in the direction of the foe. Arrows and arrow-like flecks surround the figures. One figure walks away, removing an arrow from his arm.

While it appears to be a fight, as with most San rock art, initial appearances are deceptive. One figure, for example, has an erect, infibulated penis (a bar across the member). San did not go to war naked and there is no evidence that they pierced their genitalia. It is thus thought that infibulation is a symbolic aspect of the art. This figure may represent a shaman in an altered state of consciousness who is being restrained from hurting himself.

A figure in the pointing posture is an important clue to the deeper significance of this painting. The San believe that it is dangerous to snap one’s fingers and point at someone. They believe that supernatural potency - ‘a fight’, as it is sometimes called - travels along the arm and out of the finger. If this potency is shot at someone during a dance, especially at a child’s stomach, it can kill him or her.

Painted dots or flecks in the rock art are known to depict potency. A crouching figure has a line of tiny flecks along its back. This probably represents potency ‘boiling’ up the spine.

So a panel that, at first glance, depicts a physical fight is redolent with symbolism of the supernatural and ritual world. There are other fight scenes in the Drakensberg, including depictions of skirmishes between colonists and San. These are also almost always laced with non-real trance imagery.

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uKhahlamba Drakensberg

KwaZulu Natal

About

The Drakensberg mountain range begins its rise in the Eastern Cape, running along the length of KwaZulu-Natal’s western border. It also extends in fits and starts into Mpumalanga and covers a vast area stretching into the mountain kingdom of Lesotho.

It is generally agreed that the ‘Dragon mountains’ got their name from their ragged, irregular silhouette that looks like a dragon’s back from a distance. It was so-named by Dutch settlers. Another, albeit less popular, explanation is that early settlers were told by the locals that dragons lived in the mountains. This theory was given a bit more credence when numerous dinosaur footprints were discovered in the Eastern Free State.

The Zulu tribe has given the mountains its own, equally descriptive name – Ukhahlamba, or ‘the barrier of spears’. Whatever the language and whatever the explanation, there is no argument that the Drakensberg mountains are evocative and mysterious. It is a wild and beautiful area that can change from sunny to snowy in mere moments.

In 2001 a park was established that encompasses a huge tract of the mountains. Known as the Maloti-Drakensberg Transfrontier Conservation Area, it covers 13 000km² of Lesotho and KwaZulu-Natal. It includes the Ukhahlamba Drakensberg Park, a World Heritage Site that by itself covers some 2 400km² and is 150km long.

The Ukhahlamba Drakensberg Park is a place of immense beauty and enormous spaces. It is one of the few true remaining wildernesses where hikers can walk for days without encountering other people.

It is no surprise, then, that this place is as dangerous as it is beautiful, and one must be well-prepared if tackling it on foot.

In the very north of the park is Royal Natal National Park. It is one of the jewels in the crown of Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife and the proud guardian of the world famous ‘Amphitheatre’. This can be easily viewed from the road to the main camp of the park. A short walk along the river gives amazing photographic opportunities. The attractions of this park are many, from pleasant walks to fly-fishing and swimming in clear mountain streams. It is also home to the 850m-high Tugela Falls, the highest waterfall in Africa and the second highest in the world.

Other notable parks within the greater Drakensberg Park are Giant’s Castle, Kamberg and Loteni Nature Reserves. Each has its own attractions, capable of keeping the tourist busy for days on end.

The Drakensberg was declared a World Heritage Site for a number of reasons. It is an area of incredible natural diversity with over 2 100 plant species, more than 200 of which are endemic to the area. It is also home to over 60 species of mammal, including the threatened oribi and herds of eland and black wildebeest. It has nearly 50 species of reptile and more than 300 bird species. The naturalist will definitely find a visit to the Drakensberg incredibly rewarding.

No less interesting is the human history of the area. A prime drawcard is the San rock art. Excellent examples can be seen in Giant’s Castle. There is also a recreation of how these people prospered in the mountains until they were ruthlessly hunted out of existence by both black and white settlers.

Look out for

The Bushmen paintings are a unique art form that shrouded in mystery and deserving of at least an afternoon’s attention. The fact that they are almost always to be found in remote, beautiful caves adds to their allure. And the walk there adds to the attraction.

Hiking is one of the most popular pastimes in the Drakensberg. Depending on fitness and time, hikers can choose from short but beautiful walks to multi-day hikes. On the latter one needs to be entirely self-sufficient and equipped for inclement weather - including snow - no matter what time of the year it is.

The Giants Cup Hiking Trail is the premier ‘Berg hike, totalling almost 60km and usually taking five days to complete. It runs from Sani Pass to Busman’s Nek in the south.

The Amphitheatre in the Royal Natal National Park is one of the first things that should be put on the ‘To Do’ list. You haven’t really been to the Drakensberg until you’ve viewed it from below - and then again from the top. Here you will encounter one of the most breathtaking views in South Africa.

Fly-fishing is another excellent reason to visit the Drakensberg. KZN-Ezemvelo has a collection of very good trout waters in their reserves. Other dams and rivers are privately owned, but many are accessible to fisherman for a day fee.

The Lammergeier Hide at Giant’s Castle is an amazing place from which to get incredible sightings and photographs of birds. Highlights are the bearded vulture, Verreaux’s eagle, white-necked raven, lanner falcon and Cape vulture. Many smaller species can also be spotted. Booking is essential.

Sani Pass is one of South Africa’s great drives. In winter the pass is often closed due to ice and snow and can be a very hazardous drive. Remember that a passport is necessary to get onto the pass and a 4x4 vehicle is required by law.

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