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Game Pass Shelter

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48km from Nottingham Road

-29.3854, 29.6692

 

+27 33 845 1003 www.kznwildlife.com

About

One of the best preserved sites in southern Africa, Game Pass Shelter is situated in the Kwazulu-Natal Nature Conservation reserve at Kamberg. It was first brought to the world’s attention in 1915 when a photograph of the main panel was published in Scientific American. It has become one of the most famous rock art sites in the world because of a cluster of images at the site that have been called the ‘Rosetta Stone’ of southern African San rock art. In the late 1970s and early 1980s these images allowed researchers to interpret something of the code of San rock art. Today the site has a visitor centre with a coffee shop. Guides, which are compulsory, can be booked here for the long hike up to see the site.

There are many images at the site, some of which are strikingly clear. The ‘Rossetta Stone’ panel is also very clear. Its principal images are an eland in white and reddish ochre, an anthropomorphic figure in light red, and other therianthropic figures in light red. The white and red eland has erect hair on the neck, hump, dewlap, underbelly and tail. The animal’s head is lowered and is turned to face the viewer—as if it were swaying from side to side. The back legs are crossed as if it were stumbling. When San hunters shot eland with poisoned arrows the animals began to stumble after a while, their heads swaying from side to side and their hair standing on end. This is, therefore, a painting of a dying eland.

The anthropomorphic figure to the right holds the dying eland’s tail. Importantly, this figure's legs are crossed, mimicking the eland’s back legs. It also has black antelope hooves. This figure is therefore closely associated with the dying eland and appears to be a shaman partly transformed into the animal. What is so important about this panel is that it demonstrates the close connection between a dying eland and a San shaman experiencing trance. In the Kalahari, San shamans speak of trance as ‘death’. The shamanic associations of this panel are strengthened by the figures to the right of the anthropomorphic figure. One figure bends forward in the arms-back posture, sometimes adopted when shamans ask their god to fill them with supernatural potency. Another kaross-clad figure has an antelope head, while a third figure has antelope hooves and is covered in erect hair.

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Midlands & Kamberg

KwaZulu Natal

About

The KwaZulu-Natal Midlands is undeniably one of the most beautiful parts of our spectacular country. It’s blessed with a little bit of everything.

Rolling hills, burbling brooks and surging rivers… history, game reserves and haunting battlefields. Not bad for only a section of one of our nine provinces. 

It’s pressed up against the Drakensberg-Ukahlamba mountains in the west, stretched along the coastal belt in the east and hemmed in by the mighty Tugela River in the north. The Midlands is a fertile area that is dominated by agriculture and wide open spaces.

For many, the Midlands has become synonymous with a small area around Nottingham Road. While this is indeed a cornerstone of the region, the Midlands encompasses a far greater and more diverse area than it is often credited with.

It begins in the south-east where the Umgeni River runs through the Valley of a Thousand Hills, with its crags and cliffs, aloes and thorn trees. Further west is the province’s capital city, Pietermaritzburg. 

This is a small part of Victorian England painstakingly recreated in Africa - complete with an ornate cricket pavilion and the largest red-brick building in the southern hemisphere as its city hall. 

It was after being thrown from a train here that Mahatma Ghandi was inspired to take the first steps of his peaceful protests against discrimination. A statue of the great man still stands in the city centre.

Another great man, South Africa’s iconic Nelson Mandela, also has a firm link to the region and its railways. Just outside Howick one can visit the spot where Madiba was finally arrested, while travelling by train. A plaque marks the otherwise nondescript spot.

The history continues to the north, where the English, Zulu and Afrikaner fought each other at various times in history. While the more famous battlefields are to be found further north and east in Zululand, there are fascinating places to visit in the Midlands, too. These are most notably around the towns of Colenso and Weenen.

In the more westerly parts of the Midlands, where it comes up against the buttresses of the Drakensberg, the Midlands offers some exceptional fly-fishing for trout in rivers and dams. 

Midmar Dam outside Howick is a popular venue for carp and bass fishing, as is Albert Falls Dam further east. There also are a number of excellent courses vying for golfers’ attentions.

Of course, no visit to the Midlands is complete without exploring the Midlands Meander for at least a day or two. The best way to do this is to head north from Howick on the R103, a good tar road that ambles and winds through forests and farmlands. This road is regularly dotted with interesting attractions. 

But don’t stick resolutely to this one road. Pick up a Meander map and explore. Head out to the Dargle, the Karkloof or Curry’s Post. It’ll be quieter, but is just as interesting and picturesque.

Look out for

The Midlands Meander – is what the majority of visitors think of when they hear ‘Midlands’. It deserves its reputation, too. It has become a successful, sustainable tourist attraction that focuses on quality, handmade products and local produce. A few of the highlights are Ardmore Ceramics, the Woodturner, Shuttleworth Weaving and the Zulu Quilt Centre.

Sports – are a major attraction in the Midlands. Every year the Duzi Canoe Marathon starts in Pietermaritzburg and, three days later, ends in Durban. The Midmar Mile is an open-water swim that takes place annually in Midmar Dam. The Comrades Marathon is the largest ultramarathon in the world, running from Pietermaritzburg to Durban, or vice versa in alternate years.

Howick Falls - are a big drawcard in the region, but don’t think that all one can do is gaze at them.  Take a walk into the gorge, through thick indigenous bush filled with bird calls. You’ll be rewarded with the best possible view of the falls, and with a refreshing swim. Adventurers can also abseil over the 107-metre drop, past precariously perching aloes, caressed by the waterfall’s drifting spray.

Hartford House - is a destination worth visiting just for the food. It is also worth spending a night in this historic, luxurious boutique hotel. Situated just outside Mooi River, this romantic getaway on a working horse stud farm is home to an award-winning restaurant. It offers splendid set-course dinners coupled with excellent wines.

Fly-fishing - the first trout to be imported into South Africa were brought to Balgowan in the Midlands. It’s hard to find better fly-fishing than in this region. The dams around Nottingham Road, in the Rosetta/Kamberg District and in the Dargle, are renowned for the trophy rainbow trout. The rivers that flow from the Drakensberg are similarly famed. Indigenous yellowfish are becoming increasingly targeted on fly. They can be fished for in the Tugela, Msunduzi and Umgeni Rivers, amongst others.

Mountain biking - A number of high-profile mountain biking events are held in the Midlands every year. Pietermaritzburg has even hosted the Mountain Bike World Cup. This should give some indication of the quality of the cycling available in the region.

When to go

To Do

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