Protea Banks DivingEnquire Now
In Shelly Beach
Advanced divers only
+27 82 456 7885 www.afridive.com
Protea Banks is the preserve of advanced divers only but it’s an absolute must for shark fiends and adrenalin junkies. About 7,5 kilometres offshore and swept by currents, Protea’s main drawcard is the variety of shark and other big pelagic species, which includes Zambezi (bull), hammerhead, ragged-tooth, dusky, thresher, tiger and blacktip sharks, the occasional great white, mako or bronze whaler, large numbers of rays and game fish and all the usual reef dwellers.
The Northern Pinnacles rates as one of the most exciting shark dives in the world and is best dived in the winter months (June to November), when ragged-tooth sharks congregate on the reef to mate. The dive starts at a large, open-topped cave, which is usually full of raggies, then you swim past a tunnel – or through it if it’s shark free – past coral gardens to a second open-topped cave with lots of chambers where the raggies like to rest and where, during late spring and early summer, you’ll often see large shoals of hammerhead sharks overhead.
Sharks are not the sole attraction though; you’ll often see huge potato bass, rays and game fish on this thrilling dive.
The high chance of seeing Zambezi sharks on the Southern Pinnacles between October and May means this the most popular site in the summer months. It was the Zambezis that initially put Protea Banks on the world dive-site map and divers from all over the world return annually to encounter these fearsome looking predators.
Blacktip sharks are seen all year round, while scalloped and great hammerhead sharks make an appearance at the beginning and end of the year.
You can also enjoy baited shark diving on Protea Banks with African Dive Adventures – a rare opportunity since South Africa is one of only three countries in the world offering this kind of diving. Using a baiting technique that closely resembles the shark's natural feeding habit, divers (and snorkellers and non-divers on the boat) can experience the thrill of interacting with sharks without a cage.
Encounters with large tiger sharks are almost guaranteed from March until June, while Zambezi sharks come to the bait all year round and make for a completely relaxed and unforgettable viewing experience. So if you’re a photographer, here’s your chance to get that award-winning picture.
And although Protea doesn’t have the colourful reefs to match those of Aliwal Shoal, sharks are not the only attraction. The recently discovered site of Playground, just north of Protea Banks, for example, offers spectacular underwater topography and is full of surprises.
The dive starts in a rocky canyon with a sandy bottom and overhanging rocks and continues past wonderful rock formations before culminating in a horseshoe feature with a swim-through known as Dragonmouth Cave that is a good 20 metres long.
Large numbers of pelagic fish, such as barracuda, yellowtail and kingfish, are seen on this site all year round, while seasonal visitors include tiger, Zambezi and ragged-tooth sharks in the winter months and hammerheads in summer.
Decades ago, beach holidays were simple. They were holidays of buckets and spades, sunburn, ice-creams melting on your fingers, brollies and swimming. Somehow, the KwaZulu-Natal South Coast has managed to retain this relaxed, old-school charm and escaped the ruthless modernisation of other parts of the world.
The South Coast stretches from the outskirts of Durban to the Eastern Cape border just south of Port Edward, with countless small towns dotted in between.
Some are prime holiday destinations that attract crowds by offering busy nightlife and organised activities. Others are gentler and more relaxed, relying on the natural charm of the ocean and the beach to attract a less frenetic class of people.
Whatever your preference, you will be sure to find some place that fits the bill on the South Coast.
Running down almost the length of the South Coast is the N2 highway, passing through grasslands, hills, sugar cane and over bridges that span a multitude of wide rivers bringing water from the inland mountains. It is an area of great natural beauty and the sandy beaches are numerous and beautiful, perfect for long walks in the afternoon.
Obviously the Indian Ocean is the prime reason for most tourism and it is easy to understand why. Even in winter, the water is warm and swimmable, but in spring, summer and even autumn the water hovers around 25 degrees Celsius, making it perfect for long days in the water.
Six beaches on the South Coast have been awarded the coveted Blue Flag status, which means they satisfy 32 criteria, including service, safety, water quality and even environmental management. While these six beaches obviously have something to crow about, there are dozens of other beaches that are as beautiful, safe and worth visiting. In fact, in summer, when the crowds are out, many of these beaches might prove more enjoyable than those with the coveted Blue Flag status.
Beneath the warm waters of the Indian Ocean are further attractions, and the scuba-diving spots of Aliwal Shoal and Protea Banks are some of the best in the country, with Aliwal often rated as one of the top-10 dive sites in the world.
The South Coast offers far more than just its top-class beaches, though, with a number of small game reserves, excellent golf courses and more.
Oribi Gorge is piece of rugged wilderness just a short drive from Port Shepstone beach. Nature is the attraction here, and all sorts of birds and animals thrive in the gorges and forests along the river banks. It has also become something of an adventure destination, so prepare yourself for adrenalin highs.
Wherever you choose to stay, and whatever you choose to do, make a point not to drift too far away from the simplicity and relaxation of a holiday on a beautiful beach.
Look out for
The Sardine Run is one of the world’s great migrations and sights of the natural world. Unfortunately, the timing is a bit hard to pinpoint, much like the Namaqualand daisies, but it generally occurs in the middle of winter. Tens of millions of sardines make their way up the coast, followed by thousands of sharks, dolphins, game fish and whales, as well as flocks of predating birds. Scuba-divers can dive alongside this natural phenomenon.
Oribi Gorge, a short drive inland from Port Shepstone, is a spectacular natural attraction formed by the Mzimkhulu and Mzimkulwana rivers. A nature reserve offers birding, game-viewing and walks, while operators in the area offer white-water rafting, mountain-biking, a gorge swing, abseiling, horse-riding, fishing and more. It is also a wonderful spot for landscape photography, or relaxing at one of the lodges or spas.
Scuba-diving is a major attraction on the South Coast, which is lucky enough to boast two world-class dive destinations in Aliwal Shoal and Protea Banks.
If scuba-diving is too tame for you, or if you want to up the stakes a little, try shark-diving on for size. Specialist dive operators give you the opportunity to swim with all sorts of shark species, including the fearsome bull shark, tiger shark, hammerhead shark and ragged-tooth shark.
The coast’s Blue Flag beaches (Trafalgar beach and Marina beach near San Lameer, Ramsgate beach, Margate beach, Lucien beach near Margate and Umzumbe beach) rank amongst the best in the world and spending the day on them is a privilege that should be savoured.
The South Coast boasts some wonderful golf courses, including San Lameer, Selbourne and the Wild Coast Sun (just across the provincial border in the Eastern Cape), while almost every small town also offers a very good local course.
For something a little different, pop into the Beaver Creek Coffee Farm outside Port Edward. Here you can watch the entire process that the coffee bean makes on its way to becoming that hot cup of brew on your breakfast table. There is also a restaurant and a shop selling Beaver Creek’s excellent coffee.
The South Coast offers very good birding along most of its length, and birders can enjoy sightings of interesting birds without leaving the towns they are staying in. That said, there are a few spots that are particularly good, such as the Mtamvuna Nature Reserve and Oribi Gorge.